Preserved Lemons - salty and intense

It has been a while, but way back some four or five months ago, I made some preserved lemons.  Of course, it has taken until now to blog about them as it would have been useless to just write about making them without being able to write about the end result!

Let me tell you, the end result is impressive.  So impressive.  Lemons on steroids.  Oh yes.

Now before I go any further, if you're new to preserved lemons let me explain that these aren't for use in a sweet capacity.  No, they're for use in fish dishes, or Moroccan tagines, with lamb or pretty much anywhere you want the full power of lemon zest, but without the sharp tang of lemon juice.

I had been dallying around the edges of using preserved lemons in dishes for years.  I even bought a jar of commercially prepared preserved lemons, used two and threw the rest away months later, having never gone back to them.  However, they always stayed on the edges of my culinary consciousness and I always intended to get back to using them with some seriousness.

Then I began reading about people having made their own.  About how easy it was and what a great result they got from being home made.  Well, they weren't kidding on both counts.  Making them is as easy as cutting and squeezing lemons - if you can do that, you're home and hosed.  As for using them, well, I've only used them in one dish as of yet but I don't need anything more than that, they're phenomenal.

If you're one of the enlightened who use preserved lemons a lot but assumed they would be tricky to make - read on.  Likewise read on if you're even just a tiny bit curious about them, as you really don't need to make a whole shedload of them.  Your only restriction is the size of the jar you preserve them in!

So, here we go :

PRESERVED LEMONS

Ingredients :

Lemons - more unwaxed lemons than will fit into the amount of jars you have available
Sea or Rock salt - expensive or economical, it's up to you, but for approximately 5/6 lemons you will need at least 200g.  Just make sure that it's salt with no additives.

Method :

Begin by sterilising your jar(s).

Heat your oven to 140degC/225degF/gas 1. Wash the jars in hot, soapy water, then rinse well. Place the jars on a baking sheet and put them in the oven to dry completely. Allow them to cool and you're good to go.

The first step is to drop a small handful of salt into the bottom of the jar.

Next, taking your first lemon, cut a cross into each lemon so that it divides the fruit into four sections that are still attached at one end.

Sprinkle salt into the cuts, forcing it right into the deepest part of the fruit. Don't be mean about this - really cover each lemon in salt.

Then, push the lemon into the jar and, taking a wooden spoon, use the handle end to push, squeeze and flatten the lemon so that a) it takes up as little room as possible and b) a degree of its juice comes out.

Repeat with further lemons until the jar is full. I used a half and two quarters, along the line, to fill up the inevitable small gaps. Once your jar is full of lemons, check how much juice you have released. If the juice is up over the top of the uppermost lemon then that's what you want. If not, squeeze sufficient lemon juice into the jar until the uppermost lemon is covered.

Lastly, add another handful of salt and encourage it into all the little gaps.

Give the neck of the jar a good wipe clean and seal it up. Place it into a dark, cool cupboard and wait some four to five months. Every so often, visit your lemons and turn the jars over, just to ensure the juice is getting to everywhere.

At the end of the preserving time, open your jar with reverence and anticipation. You will find the juice has turned syrupy and the smell is just incredible.

To use your lemons, take as much as you will require for the dish and scrape away the flesh. Rinse the rind under a cold tap briefly to wash off the worst of the salt and chop, or slice your lemon how the recipe dictates. A good inaugural recipe is my Lemon & Caper Butter Cod, which enables you to enjoy the special flavour of your lemony efforts whilst resulting in a bit of a special dinner.

Just make sure to get a second batch on to preserve before you finish this batch. I reckon that once you've got them, you're not going to want to run out!

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Dorset Apple Cake

Having FINALLY got around to baking the Dorset Apple Cake that I'd been threatening to bake for around a month, I'm really not too sure about the results.

You see, the photograph of the Dorset Apple Cake on the recipe (which was given to me by a friend and I've no idea where it originates from) didn't look even a tiny bit like the cake that I wound up with.

My cake batter appeared to be more of a shortbread biscuit type of mixture - very dry and almost crumbly.  The recipe states "don't worry if the mixture is a bit stiff, keep mixing and it will come together".  Well, I mixed and mixed and added a tiny bit more liquid and it stayed looking a bit like a damp shortbread mixture, so I shrugged my shoulders and used it.

For all that the end result didn't look like its picture, it looked interesting and indeed was very nice to eat.

However, I'd consider it more of a dessert than a "cake" as such.  The cake part of the thing was (not surprisingly) very dense, although with the apple pieces throughout and with apple slices on the top, it avoided being dry.  The lemon zest came through in the cake mixture with a lovely little tang and I saved a few calories by using 40/60 Splenda sugar substitute and caster sugar.  I guess that could be part of the reason why the cake mixture was so dry, as sugar would have dissolved into syrup whereas the Splenda just sort of fizzes.

When served, the slice was just begging for cream, or greek yoghurt, or ice cream or even custard - so we sidetracked a little of the cream meant for the following day's trifle. 

We did eat all but one slice (although not all at once, she hastens to add!) - which got overtaken by other events and when I finally got back to it with intentions of eating it up, discovered a neat little round of mould on one apple slice.  Harumph!  Rats!

Hence, if you're planning on making the cake, I'd recommend not trying to keep it beyond two days - just to be on the safe side.  Ordinarily, of course, we'd have eaten it all up within those two days, but Mother's Day got in the way!

DORSET APPLE CAKE    (serves min. of 8)

Ingredients :

225g self raising flour
25g cornflour
1 tsp baking powder
110g butter
110g caster sugar (or 60g sugar plus 2 tbsp Splenda)

zest of 1 lemon
225g peeled, cored and diced cooking apples (weight following preparation)
1 large egg
2 tbsp milk
1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and sliced thinly, soaked in lemon juice
2-3 tbsp soft brown sugar.

METHOD :

1.  Pre-heat your oven to 170degC/325degF/Gas 3.

2.  Butter and line an 8" round cake tin with removable base.

3.  Sift flour, cornflour and baking powder into a large mixing bowl.

4.  Cut the butter into small pieces and rub in, until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.

5.  Stir in the caster sugar, diced apple and lemon zest.

6.  In a separate bowl whisk together the egg and milk.

7.  Bind the mixture together with the egg/milk mixture.  Don't worry if it is a bit stiff, keep on mixing and it will come together.

8.  Pour into the prepared baking tin and level the surface.

9.  Arrange the apple slices on top, then sprinkle the brown sugar all over to make a crusty glaze.

10.  Bake in the oven for around 35-40 minutes, or until a cocktail stick inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.

11.  Cool in the tin, then turn out onto a cake plate and serve with a dollop of cream.

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Tuna & lemon pasta - one for when you're just too tired.

There are times in everyone's life when you're just too tired, or too sad, or just too meh! to cook, yet the desire for comfort food is warring with the desire to continue sitting where you are, quietly dissolving into further misery.

Well, this is the perfect recipe for one of those occasions - and what's more, quite apart from being so tasty it could bring a teensy glimmer of a smile to your face, it's good for you!

I have got to admit that I wasn't feeling either too tired, too sad or too meh! on Tuesday evening when I served this up for our dinner, but as a contender for "Pizza Tuesday" (when we're trying to ignite Son & heir's interest in foods other than those on his plate), it was perfect.

Son & heir, you see, has decided that tuna is one of those ingredients that shall no longer sully his particular plate.  "It's too dry!" he complained, the last time I served it to him.  (Although it would appear to be okay as tuna pasta bake.  Work that one out if you dare).

I'd bought him a Lasagne to have that night but he managed to finagle his way in to his friend's house where he had been invited to stay for tea, which left us to tuck into our pasta in peace.

Mind you, it wouldn't have been difficult to have made expansive gestures of delight and deliciousness over our plates of pasta, as the recipe really is quite lovely.  Hubby had only managed about 10 minutes of anticipatory napping, when the call to attention was made.  Quite literally, all you need to do is put four things into a bowl, two things into a saucepan of water - and you're done!  Just about enough time to warm up some plates.

TUNA & LEMON PASTA  (serves 2)

Ingredients :

350g pasta shells
200g pack trimmed fine green beans, cut into short lengths
200g can of tuna in olive oil
grated zest of a lemon
1 heaped tbsp baby capers
a generous pinch of chilli flakes
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil for drizzling.

Method :

1.  Fill a large saucepan with water, add a pinch of salt and put on a high heat to boil.

2.  Cook the pasta according to pack instructions.  (Usually around 8-9 minutes).

3.  With around 3-4 minutes to go, add the beans and cook until tender (or until the pasta is done.  If you're dubious about timing these two correctly, just cook the beans in a separate pan).

4.  Into a bowl, tip the tuna (including the oil) and flake the fish gently.  Add the lemon zest, capers, chilli and a good helping of pepper.

5.  Drain the pasta and beans, return them to the pan and toss in the tuna mixture.  Stir gently to combine.  If the mixture is looking a little dry, add a drizzle or two of extra virgin olive oil.

Serve on warmed plates.

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Strawberry & Rhubarb Pie - why haven't I made this before now?

I'm posting about this marvellous pie now, out of sequence, owing to the clamour that is going on via Twitter, for the recipe.  :)

It really was a fabulous pie - and although I've never been to America, nor had an American pie, it seemed to answer the description (and match the photographs) of a good deep-filled American pie.

I've been asked on Facebook (where I am "Jenny Davies" if anyone wants to find me) what motivated the pie.  It's a good question, because it's not a combination of fruits that we have really considered using, here in the U.K.  All of which gives you a clue about where the inspiration came from.  I had done a blog posting involving rhubarb, which set off a chain of reactions from those friends in the USA, who were all saying "Oh, I love rhubarb, but in a strawberry & rhubarb pie" - so, inevitably, I asked what was so special about this pie.  The answer was "it's not something that's easy to express, but you'll know once you've had one".  So, of course, I promised myself that once strawberries were in season and £1 a punnet (they were £2.50 a punnet at the time), I'd indulge.

All done and ready for baking

That time is now, and the pie has been made.  I can confirm that the sweetness of the strawberries offsets the tartness of the rhubarb and the two flavours go so well together (with the aid of a little lemon zest, lemon juice and cinnamon), that the pie is a "mmmnnnn..." and "ooooh.." and "mmhmmnff...." of pleasure, experience.  The rhubarb stays in it's pieces and doesn't disintegrate to mush and the strawberries are very definitely strawberries, having resisted the urge to disintegrate to their own class of mush, also.  The three tablespoons of sugar was very definitely enough to sweeten the rhubarb and enhance the strawberries.

Just out of the oven - see the juice escaping from the top?

The interesting thing is, that because you don't part-bake the base of the pie (it's an "under and over" type of crust) and you don't cook the fruit prior to adding it to the pie, the bottom crust has a chance to cook whilst the strawberries & rhubarb are still thinking about releasing their juice.  By the time they do release that lovely juice, the bottom crust is cooked.  Magic.  Nobody likes a pie with a soggy bottom.


A quick word about pastry.  Because I don't have a lot of energy in my own personal tank and I was also cooking a shoulder of pork, I opted for shop-bought frozen shortcrust pastry in this instance.  However, there's no reason why you should do this if you don't want to.  By all means make your own shortcrust pastry - you'll need enough to cover the base of the pie dish and provide a top for your pie.

You want a spoon, don't you - go on, admit it.

Oh, and another quick word about quantities.  I had five 9 inch long sticks of rhubarb and a punnet of strawberries - and the lot went in.  I cut the rhubarb into pieces of around a centimeter or half an inch long and the largest of the strawberries I sliced in half.  I piled the fruit into the pie dish until I had a mini-mountain going on - and so long as you've got enough pastry to fit over the top, I see no reason not to.  After all, you won't get a deep-filled pie, unless you heap the goodies in!

11.09.13 : Edited to tell you about some changes I've made to the recipe.

The first is that I have been to part-baking the bottom layer of pastry.  Yes, it takes a little bit longer, but it does ensure that the bottom of your pie stays crisply baked.

I have also, once part-baked, brushed a light coating of egg yolk (the same egg wash as you use for the top) onto the bottom layer of pastry while it is still hot.  This sets and renders the lower pastry juice-proof.

Because of the quantity of juice that this pie delivers, I experimented with various remedies.  The one which worked the best - and which I shall adopt henceforth - is to toss the fruit in a spoonful or two of cornflour.  As the fruit cooks and releases its juice the juice mixes with the cornflour, which when heated then thickens.  This serves to stop your pie from becoming too wet - and ultimately keeps your lovely crisp pastry from becoming all soggy.  It works like a charm and you don't notice the cornflour at all.  Perfect!

These changes have been reflected in the updated recipe below.


STRAWBERRY & RHUBARB PIE : feeds 4-5

Ingredients :

Pack of frozen shortcrust pastry (I used the ready-rolled rounds)
4-5 sticks of rhubarb (or as much as you can cram in), cut into 1cm pieces
a punnet of strawberries, hulled and any big ones sliced in half
3 tbsp granulated sugar
1-2 tbsp cornflour
half a tsp of cinnamon
half a lemon, zested and juiced
1 egg yolk
a tsp of granulated sugar as decoration.

Method :

1.  Pre-heat your oven to 180deg C (fan). 

2.  Take one of the rounds of ready-made pastry and, if necessary, roll it out to fit the pie dish.  Place it in the dish and leave the excess flopping over the edge which will ensure that the pastry won't shrink back from the edges of the pie dish.

3.  Place a layer of greaseproof paper or baking parchment on top of the pastry and fill with baking beans.  Bake in the centre of the oven for 15 minutes.

4.  While the pastry bakes, place the two fruits, sugar (except the tsp for decoration), cornflour, cinnamon, lemon zest and juice into a bowl and mix to combine.

5.  As soon as you have removed the pastry from the oven, remove the paper and the baking beans and set them aside somewhere safe to cool.  Brush a light coating of the egg yolk onto the pastry while it is still hot.

6.  Pile the fruit into the be-pastried pie dish and arrange into a neat mountain.

7.  Brush egg yolk around the pastry edge.

8.  Take the second round of pastry and roll out (if necessary) to ensure it is big enough to fit over the fruit so that the top and bottom edges meet and cut a small cross into the centre of the round.  Place on top of the pie and very gently make sure the edges meet.

9.  Using a small sharp knife tease out the cross in the centre, to create a hole for steam to escape.  Then press the tip of the knife into the pastry all around the edge, forming a decorative pattern that serves to seal the edges of the pie.

10.  Taking a sharp knife, trim the excess pastry away.

11.  I always place my pie onto a foil covered baking sheet, just in case the juice decides to overflow whilst cooking.  It's easier to throw away some silver foil, than clean your oven!


12.  Brush the top of your pie with the remainder of the egg yolk to glaze and add the teaspoon of sugar, sprinkled over, to make it look yummy.  Bake for around 25 minutes, then turn to ensure an even bake.  Continue baking for another 15 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and evenly golden.

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Birthday High Tea No. 2 : Tuna & cheese tart

The tart, prior to having its pastry crust trimmed

I have been after, since time immemorial, my Mum's recipe for her Salmon Tartlets.

Lo and behold, she turned it up the other day and sent me a copy - right in time for me to be able to make a version of it for Son's birthday High Tea.

You know how some dishes stay in your memory, long after the occasions they were made for have vanished?  Well this is one of those.  I seem to remember our having the Salmon Tartlets at just about every Christmas tea-time, when you're so stuffed from Christmas Dinner that all you can really manage is one leetle tartlet and a wafer-thin mint.  They have resided in my memory, alongside a big sign which says "YUM" for as long as I can remember, so you can imagine how pleased I was to finally get the recipe.

However, needless to say, I couldn't quite run to Salmon on the ole budget but Tuna goes very well with Cheddar cheese in a Tuna Pasta Bake, so I figured that Tuna would be an acceptable replacement, as indeed it was.  Chillibob was surprised at the lack of white sauce, he expected it to come up a lot more "saucy" than it does.  However that was his expectation as opposed to the recipe's results, as my Tuna version actually came up a lot "saucier" than my Mum's remembered Salmon versions!

Apart from the denomination of fish, the tart differs from my Mum's recipe in that the original has you make individual leetle tart cases for filling.  I didn't have a suitable tart tray (mine having died when the boiler began leaking, one day) so I made one big tart and divided it into slices on the day.

TUNA & CHEESE TART (serves 6 for a buffet, or 4 if you're hungry!)

Ingredients :

1 small can of Tuna in spring water
a white sauce mix, including enough milk (or make a sauce from scratch with a Roux)
half a lemon, zested
black pepper, to taste
cheddar cheese, grated, to cover

Method :

This recipe presumes that you have already either made or bought a shortcrust pastry case, approx 8" across.

1.  Pre-heat your oven to 180deg C (fan).  Make up the sauce mix, including some generous seasoning as the fish - being in spring water - doesn't have any added salt.  Set aside to cool.

2.  Decant the fish into a bowl and lightly break up the chunks.  Add the lemon zest and a bit more pepper.

3.  Add the sauce spoonful by spoonful until you achieve the desired consistency, which is one where there's just enough sauce to hold everything together, but not so much that it is loose and runny.

4.  Add the fish mixture to the pastry case, smooth until it's level and sprinkle a covering of cheddar cheese over.

5.  Bake in the oven for 30 mins (or more, depending on the thickness of your cheese), then allow to cool before serving.

Serve as part of a buffet, or with a jacket potato or salad (or both!) as a main meal.