Chicken, asparagus & tarragon risotto - light, fresh and lovely

This, dear reader, is a blog post of note.  Not because the risotto under discussion was particularly brilliant - although it actually was - but because of who thought it up and who cooked it.

Me.  This was my first ever main course risotto.

Yes, I do realise that dear Hubby is the Risotto Chef Extraordinaire of the family.   However it occurred to me that it was all very well him knowing how to produce a good risotto, but perhaps it would be a good idea if I knew how to, as well!

Just as an aside, I did have an additional motivation, which was that poor Hubby has hurt his back and can't spend ages in front of the cooker stirring a risotto.  I miss my risottos - they're another comfort food and you all know how much I love my comfort food.

In fact, this recipe began life in my head as a pie.  Chicken, asparagus and tarragon pie - sounds good, eh?  Well, that's what I thought.  Then I had something of a tummy conniption (knew I shouldn't have had chilli con carne, followed by curry the next day!) and have had to steer clear of spicy or particularly fatty foods and let my poor old tummy settle.  So that was the pastry option out of the equation - and when you start thinking about what else you could do with chicken, asparagus and tarragon, it's a short step to a risotto.

Whenever I'm thinking about a recipe that involves chicken, I immediately find myself being resistant to the idea of cubes of chicken meat.  I haven't a clue what a cube of chicken meat has done to deserve it, but I really don't like it cubed.  Cubes or chunks are okay for curries and some casseroles, but not for everything.  Thin slices are good for stir fries and small chunks work in a pie.  Risotto, however, now that demands shredded chicken.  Don't ask me who made these rules, I'm sure I didn't.  ~whistles innocently, whilst dragging one toe in the dust~  

The chicken flavour I could imagine in my concept risotto, was a gentle, fresh chicken flavour.  Not pan fried, or roasted.  Too heavy.  There was really only one choice left to me, which was poached.  Now I've never poached a chicken breast before - well, there are so many "firsts" involved in cooking! - and had no idea how the flavour would wind up, but if my imagination was saying it would be just the job, ~shrug~, I'd go with it.  I'd poach the chicken in the stock I was going to use for the risotto until just cooked, then shred the meat.  That way, I'd be saving and using every ounce of flavour it was possible to achieve, from the chicken.

It is true to say that the most important ingredient in a risotto, is the stock.  It is the stock that flavours the rice - and not just by providing the moisture around each grain, but by soaking into the rice and flavouring it from inside to outside.  Thus, it is of paramount important that every flavour you want to be uppermost, is reflected in the stock.

I had the chicken flavour from the use of chicken stock (I used the fabulous chicken stock powder from Essential Cuisine, my favourite stock people) and poaching the chicken.  The asparagus flavour is boosted by the addition of the offcuts from each asparagus spear, which are broken up so as to access all the flavour available.  The addition of several full stems of fresh tarragon with leaves attached (plus the bald stems that you've taken the leaves from) makes sure that the three primary flavours are right up there.

If I relied upon the addition of the asparagus and tarragon at the end of the dish, the flavours would be nothing like as pronounced or established.  Both ingredients do not have long enough in the pan to make sufficient impression upon the flavour of the whole.  Hence, it is very well worth that little bit of extra work to include them in the stock.  It is true, it does make finding the asparagus tips a bit like fishing in the undergrowth when it comes to blanching them - but it is worth it! 

Now, let's discuss the basic stock.  For goodness' sake, if you're going to use a commercially produced stock, don't use anything other than a reduced salt stock powder or stock cube.  The pinch of salt that you add to the stock is sufficient and much, much less salt than you will get from a full-salt version.  Bear in mind that the nature of a risotto is to absorb and reduce the stock.  If you're reducing a full-salt stock, that can get hellishly salty - and once over salted, it is impossible in the time you have available, to bring it back.

So get yourself a good quality low salt stock - and if you're using home made, you might like to reduce it by boiling in a pan for a while, so as to achieve good, highly flavoured chicken stock.  Oh, and when using home made chicken stock, you'll need to use your knowledge of how much salt is in it already, to decide whether you'll require the pinch or not.

A quick cook's tip, is to blanche your asparagus tips for no longer than 2 minutes or you stand the chance of losing the bright green colour when you re-heat them, prior to serving.

I know the recipe looks terribly complicated, but it really isn't - it's just that each stage took a lot of description, but is really quick to achieve!  The end risotto is a lovely, light but satisfying, bowl of comfort food that - for once - doesn't leave you feeling all heavy and bloated.  Now there is a place for heavy and bloated, I'll not deny that, but there is also a place for a lighter texture of comfort food.  Food that gives you a big hug, whilst still letting you fit into your trousers, or behind the wheel of your car.

Having said all that, I won't go into too much detail about the ice cream, home made rhubarb jam, blueberries and amaretti that we had for dessert.  ~kof~  (It was lovely, though!).


CHICKEN, ASPARAGUS & TARRAGON RISOTTO   (serves 3 for a main course)

Ingredients :

2-3 tsp low salt chicken stock powder (or sufficient low salt stock cubes) made up to 1 litre stock
a pinch of sea salt
a large pinch of ground white pepper
1 bunch (7-8 stems) asparagus
4-5 full stems of tarragon, plus 1 tbsp chopped tarragon leaves
2 skinless & boneless chicken breasts
1 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil
a large knob of butter
2 banana shallots, peeled and chopped finely
300g arborio rice
100ml white wine (any kind, sweet works as well as dry)
a handful of defrosted frozen peas
grated parmesan cheese, to taste and for sprinkling.

Method :

1.  Make up the chicken stock into a saucepan and place on the heat.  You are aiming to bring the contents to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently.

2.  Take the thick, woody ends off of the asparagus and smash by laying the side of the knife on top, then hitting with the heel of your hand.  Add them to the stock pot, along with the tarragon stems (which should still have their leaves attached), salt and pepper.

3.  Remove the tips from the asparagus and set aside, then cut each spear into small pea sized logs.

4.  Cut each chicken breast into three evenly sized pieces and add to the hot stock.  Cover the pan and simmer for 8-10 minutes, or until the chicken is just cooked through.

5.  Remove the chicken pieces, retaining the stock, and shred the chicken.

6.  Place the asparagus spears into the stock and blanche for 2 minutes, then remove and set aside.

7.  Into a deep pan, add the oil and butter and heat gently.

8.  Add the shallots and cook on a gentle heat until soft and yielding.  Do not allow them to colour.  Remove using a slotted spoon so that the majority of the buttery oil falls back into the pan, and set aside.

9.  Increase the heat under the pan to high and add the rice.  Stir the rice well, making sure every grain is covered in the buttery oil.  Allow the pan to reach as hot a temperature as you dare, without burning the rice.  Each grain should be taking on a slightly golden hue and screaming for mercy, whereupon you add your first ladle of stock.

10.  The first ladleful will disappear in a great exhalation of steam from the pan, so be ready with a second.  Stir the rice gently but constantly, allowing it to absorb the stock and release the starchy creaminess that epitomises a risotto.

11.  Add the white wine and the cooked shallots and stir through.

12.  Once the rice has just about absorbed all the stock, add the next ladleful.  Stir, stir, stir.  Risotto is not something you can leave to cook while you read a book.  Continue in this vein - ladleful of stock, stir stir stir, pan dries out, ladleful of stock - until the rice is soft yet al dente.  Patience, that's the key!

13.  With your last ladleful or two of stock, add the chicken, tarragon leaves, asparagus logs and the peas.  Place a lid on for a minute or so, then stir, replace the lid, then stir, replace the lid, until the asparagus has lost its raw crunchiness (but is still firm and bright green) and the chicken is heated through.

14.  Put the asparagus tips back into the stock pot, to heat through and finish cooking for their last minute.

15.  Add some grated Parmesan cheese - to taste - to the risotto and stir through.

16.  You can adjust the texture of the risotto by adding a little more stock if you think it requires it - and having had a taste, adjust the seasoning by adding a little more white pepper or a pinch of sea salt, if required.

17.  Finally, add the asparagus spears and serve with a light grating of Parmesan sprinkled over.

Scrummy.

Printable version

Bacon & Brussels Sprout Risotto

Nobody was more surprised than I, when hubby suggested we have a Bacon & Brussels Sprout Risotto, instead of the planned Bacon, Mushroom & Sundried Tomato Risotto.

What did it for him, was the discovery of hordes of the little pale green beauties snuggled up to their stems at the bottom of our garden.  Now, as blogged previously, we've had a few sneak previews of them and he'd had a taste.  As a result, he knew that they weren't the hoary old tough brussels of supermarket fame and also knew that their flavour was really incredibly delicate. He also knows that they are one of my favourite veggies.

Now, the first and most important thing that I must stress if you are considering having a go at this risotto, is to be VERY careful of your salt content.  As the bacon, butter and stock all have the potential for high salt, it is very worthwhile using unsalted butter and low salt stock.  We didn't - and coupled with some bacon that was just off the scale for salt - it rendered the whole dish really very salty.  I could cope with it, but hubby couldn't and unfortunately he had to jettison his half way through.

Having said that, however, in my opinion this risotto was sublime.  Don't try to change the minds of sprout haters by serving it, unless you can find some tender, sweet, baby sprouts.  I can't help but think that because ours came out of the garden and have been caught while they are small and luscious, it made all the difference.


We've since had a brilliant idea, which I suggest to you as an alternative.  That is, we thought it would be lovely to have some roasted chestnut involved in the risotto.  Lightly crushed, the flavour of chestnut compliments both bacon and brussels sprouts and would, more than likely, be most unusual and quite delicious.


BACON & BRUSSELS SPROUT RISOTTO  (serves 2)


Ingredients :

350g back bacon, chopped
20 baby brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed
sea salt
250g arborio rice
2 banana shallots, chopped fine
knob of unsalted butter
1 tbsp olive oil
1 litre hot, low salt, vegetable stock (made with some of the water used to blanche the sprouts)
pinch of dried basil
pinch of smoked paprika.


Method :


1.  Place a saucepan of slightly salted water on to boil.  Once boiling, add the brussels sprouts and blanche for 3-4 minutes, drain (reserving 200ml) and plunge into ice cold water.


2.  In a frying pan, dry fry the bacon until the fat has reduced and the bacon is beginning to turn golden.  Remove and reserve to keep warm - retaining some small pieces for garnish.


3.  Add the shallots to the frying pan and cook gently until they are softened but not browned.


4.  Place the butter and olive oil into a large saucepan.  Once the butter has melted, add the shallots and bring them up to a good temperature.  Add the rice, basil and smoked paprika and stir until the rice is completely coated with the buttery mixture and the whole is as hot as you dare.


5.  Return the bacon to the pan and add a ladleful of the hot stock.  Stir to combine.  The rice will absorb the stock, after which you should add another ladleful and continue in this vein.


6.  When the risotto is coming up to a simmer, reduce the heat and add the bacon.  Continue adding the stock, ladleful by ladleful.

8.  Once the brussels sprouts are cooled, drain them and cut each into quarters.


7.  When the rice is close to being tender and cooked, add the brussels sprouts and allow to heat through as the rice finishes cooking.


8.  Serve in warmed bowls with a little of the bacon to garnish and some grated Parmesan to sprinkle over.

Inflammation Factor (approx.) : +206 (103 per person)

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Roasted Butternut Squash & Goat's Cheese Risotto

Hubby is the undisputed Risotto King in our house.  I have to admit that I don't feel the need to learn how to make a risotto, as his are so superb I just couldn't match them.

This last one, for instance.  Goodness me, but each mouthful was a combination of salty, sweet, earthy, cheesiness.  Each mouthful is slightly different to another, depending on how much squash you take, or how much goat's cheese you take.  It's beyond me how anyone (for instance, on Celebrity Master Chef last night) could find risotto boring.  However, it obviously happens - and all I can think is that whatever they've been eating that they found so boring, couldn't possibly have been a true risotto!

The Butternut Squash was roasted in little dice shapes prior to being included in the risotto, which gave it that beautiful smokey flavour.  Hubby mashed half of the cooked butternut and mixed it into the risotto to boost the base flavour, but didn't use any of the goat's cheese in the risotto - just sprinkled it over the top with the remaining butternut.

There really is something comforting about a plate of lovely risotto.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH & GOAT'S CHEESE RISOTTO  (feeds 2)

Ingredients :

500g or so of butternut squash, peeled and cut into dice
1 tbsp olive oil
700ml vegetable stock (we used Marigold Vegetable Bouillion)
25g butter
2-3 small shallots, finely diced
150g arborio rice (or any risotto rice)
150ml white wine
25g finely grated parmesan cheese
sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
creamy goat's cheese, sufficient to crumble over, to serve.


Method :


1.  Heat your oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.

2.  In a bowl, toss the squash in the oil together with some seasoning.  Scatter into a shallow roasting tin and roast for 30 mins until it is brown and soft, just caramelised on the edges.

2.  Meanwhile, prepare the risotto. In a saucepan, bring the stock to the boil and keep on a low simmer.

3.  In a separate pan, melt half the butter over a medium heat. Stir in the shallots and sweat gently for 8-10 mins until soft but not coloured, stirring occasionally.

4.  Stir the rice into the shallots until completely coated in the butter, then stir continuously until the rice is shiny and the edges of the grain start to look transparent.


5.  Pour in the wine and simmer until totally evaporated. Add the stock, a ladleful at a time all the while stirring the rice over a low heat for 25-30 mins, until the rice is cooked al dente (with a slightly firm, starchy bite in the middle - which should be less bite, rather than more bite).

6.  The risotto should be creamy and slightly soupy. When you draw a wooden spoon through it, there should be a wake that holds for a few moments but not longer.
 
7.  When the squash is cooked, mash half of it to a rough purée and leave half whole. When the risotto is just done, stir though the purée, then add the parmesan cheese and butter and leave to rest for a few mins.

8.  Serve the risotto scattered with the whole chunks of squash and crumbled goat's cheese.


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Pea & Bacon Risotto, using gorgeous home grown peas

Aren't they lovely?

Needless to say, you don't HAVE to use home-grown peas!  Ours were ready to pick and a risotto was the first thing that came to mind when I was considering what to use them with.  Got to say, it was one of my better ideas.  :)

There really is little nicer in the vegetable line, than a fresh pea taken straight from the pod.

I can remember, as a child, my Nanna buying fresh peas from the greengrocer and giving them to me to "shuck".  I'm sure she must have bought more than we needed, as I worked on the premis of one (at least) from each pod going down my gullet.  They really are one of nature's little treasures.

Now, before I go any further, let me introduce you to Chillibob (on the right there - don't worry, he's fairly harmless) - who you know as "Hubby" - who will take you through this recipe : 

This is a very simple risotto, the keys to how good it can be are the quality of the ingredients and the attention given to the cooking.  The peas for this dish came from our garden and the bacon is from our local butchers and is consistently fantastic quality (and cheaper than from the supermarket).

Of course, the central plank of any risotto is the stock.  I use Marigold swiss bouillion powder for its clarity and complexity of flavours but, as a rule, the better the stock the better the risotto.  As a final note, many risotto recipes have a splash of vermouth or white wine included.  I have deliberately omitted the wine from this recipe as I had a feeling it would just be one flavour too many.

Aaah, happy memories!

Bacon and Pea Risotto

Ingredients (serves 4)

2 large banana shallots (or 4 small ones)
50g butter
300g Arborio rice
1.7 litres of good hot vegetable stock
400g smoked back bacon
200g freshly shucked peas (thats 200g after being de-podded)
50g grated parmesan cheese plus a few shavings for garnish.

Preparation:

1.  Blanch the peas in rapidly boiling water for two minutes and then refresh in a bowl of iced water.

2.  Grill the bacon until crisp, reserving a small amount of the resulting fat.  Once cool, cut four long slivers of the cooked bacon for garnish and then chop the remainder into smallish bits (or largish, depending on your preference).

3.  Very finely chop the shallots.

4.  Prepare the stock so that it is hot when added to the rice.  Never add cold stock to a risotto as it will stop the rice from releasing its starch.

5.  Melt the butter and the bacon fat together in a deep saucepan before adding the finely chopped shallots.  Cook gently until the shallots are soft and then turn the heat up before adding the rice.

6. Swoosh the rice around the pan, making sure that each grain is coated and hot.  Keep the rice moving to prevent it from sticking to the pan.  Once the rice is coated, sizzling hot and begging for mercy, add a ladleful of the stock and stir rapidly.  This first ladle of stock will be absorbed very quickly, so be ready with a second ladleful.  Add the chopped bacon and then reduce the heat to a highish simmer (not a boil).  As each ladle of stock is absorbed by the rice, add another, stirring gently but continuously.

7.  Continue this process until the rice is almost cooked, at which point the peas can be added.  Once the peas have warmed through, the rice is fully cooked and the risotto is nicely oozy, place a lid (or a plate) onto the pan and take it off the heat to rest for a minute or so.  It is important that the peas are added as late as you dare to in order that they retain their freshness and colour.

8.  Finally, stir the grated parmesan through the risotto, season with freshly ground black pepper only (there's enough salt in the bacon already) and then serve onto hot plates, garnished with a bacon sliver and the shaved parmesan.

Serve with the man/woman of your dreams and a nice glass of chilled white and a side salad (in exactly that order of preference).

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Asparagus & Prosciutto Risotto - the risotto king strikes again!

In the scheme of things where the menu planning is concerned, Saturday is now the day when hubby cooks.  He likes to cook and more often than not, his dishes are a big success.

This Saturday was a bit of a mystery tour, however.

We set off for the supermarket with the knowledge that we needed to get the ingredients for a risotto, but not what that risotto was going to comprise.  Maybe a seafood risotto, maybe an asparagus risotto - really, it could have wound up being anything.  Hubby was looking for inspiration along the supermarket shelves.

First of all, we checked out what the fishmonger had in the fresh fish Department.  He had some lovely Sea Bass, but they'd have needed filleting.  The bags of frozen seafood - squid, mussels, prawns etc. - were out of our price range at £4 for 400g.  He picked up some Prosciutto as we went through the delicatessen, but nothing else really appealed.

On to the fruit and vegetables we went, where he wandered along looking increasingly disconsolate.  Right up until we spotted the asparagus.  Suddenly, an asparagus and prosciutto risotto took form before his very eyes.  We had vegetable stock already, together with butter, parsley, olive oil and parmesan cheese.

Sorted.

ASPARAGUS & PROSCIUTTO RISOTTO  (Serves 3)

Ingredients :

75g thinly sliced prosciutto

250g asparagus

3 tbsp olive oil

a medium onion or 3 shallots, very finely diced

1 clove garlic, chopped fine

25g butter

300g Arborio or Carnaroli rice

1.5 litres of  vegetable stock

10g fresh chopped parsley

parmesan to taste, grated and shaved

Method :

1.  Bring a saucepan of salted water to a rolling boil and prepare the asparagus by snapping at the weak point (around one third of the way up the stem from the cut end).  Retain the woody ends for use in the stock and blanch the tipped ends for 60 seconds, then plunge into bowl of iced water to stop the cooking process and retain the cooking water.

2.  Prepare the stock with the asparagus water and add the woody ends cut lengthwise.  Keep the stock over a very low heat until required, not allowing it to boil.  Remove asparagus just before use.

3.  Heat the olive oil and butter gently together in a large pan.  Add the onion & garlic until they are soft and transparent, not allowing them to brown.

4.  Slice prosciutto into very thin strips.

5.  Add rice to the onion mix and stir well to coat with the oils, then turn the heat up as hot as you dare - without burning - before quenching the pan with a ladleful of stock which should have had the asparagus pieces removed.  Reduce heat to a simmer.

6.  Add another ladleful of stock and the prosucitto.   Continue adding ladlefuls whenever the mixture runs dry, stirring well and keeping it moving to avoid catching on the bottom of the pan.

7.  Continue in this way until the rice is cooked al dente.  You may find you have stock left over, which is normal as different rices require different amounts of liquid.

8.  Drain the asparagus from the iced water and add them to the risotto, warm them through.

9.  Just prior to serving, add some of the parsley, reserving a small amount for garnish.

Serve in warmed bowls, garnished with shaved parmesan and chopped parsley.

Add a bowl of grated parmesan on the table, for folk to add as they please.

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Chorizo & Red Pepper Risotto

The kitchen lights have lent it a rather more orange glow than in actuality!

I have to say, right from the start, that this lovely risotto recipe is one conjured up from the creative mind of my dear hubby.  Well, he is - after all - the Risotto King (not just the Artisan Bagel Baker), in this house.

There we sat, debating what to put on this week's menu list, when we both had a Risotto thought.  Mine went along the lines of "risotto .... mmmmn, good idea!", hubby's went along the lines of "what if we had a risotto ... with maybe chorizo ... and red pepper ... and probably peas ... and ..." and so the Chorizo & Red Pepper risotto was born.

The added benefit to this lovely risotto is it's extreme child-friendliness.  If your child is old enough to chew chorizo pieces, then they're going to love this risotto. 

CHORIZO & RED PEPPER RISOTTO (feeds 3)

Ingredients :

500g Arborio rice
1 litre pork or vegetable stock
2 large shallots, diced small
1 red pepper, finely sliced
25g butter or olive oil
1 level teaspoon smoked paprika (or more to taste)
20g grated Parmesan (with shavings to garnish)
225g thinly sliced Chorizo
200g frozen peas, defrosted and warmed
1 small wedge of lemon.

Method :

1.  Gently cook the shallots and red pepper in the butter (or oil) for five minutes or until the shallots are soft, but not browned.

2.  Add the smoked paprika and chorizo and cook for a further few minutes before turning up the heat and adding the rice.

3.  Once all of the grains of rice are thoroughly coated in the spiced oils and the pan temperature is high, add a splash of stock to 'release' the pan.

4.  Continue adding the stock, a ladleful at a time in the usual risotto method until it has been absorbed, the rice is cooked and the risotto is 'oozy'.  A little extra boiled water or stock should be kept on hand in case the rice is especially thirsty.

5.  Stir in the warmed peas, grated parmesan and a small squeeze of lemon before removing from the heat for a quick rest (the risotto, not the cook).

6.  Serve in warmed bowls, garnished with the parmesan shavings.

Note:  Do not add frozen peas, as this will kill the cooking process and make the ooze go all runny!

Accompany with warmed bread or a side salad.  Delicious!